Ten Ways to Kill A Tree

by Ronald E. Rothhaas Jr.
The Arbor Doctor

1. Plant large trees in small spaces.

Some trees naturally grow much larger than others. If your yard is small an oak may not be the best choice. A large tree in a small space may interfere with pavement, utility wires, buildings, or lead to any number of other interferences.

For more information:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1143.html

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_selection.aspx

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/trees_turf.aspx

2. Choose a tree just for its flowers.

We are commonly attracted to plants because of pretty flowers or fall color. However, often these characteristics are only present for a week or two out of the year. Additionally, a tree with pretty flowers may have growing needs which cannot be satisfied in your yard. Selecting for characteristics which are present for longer periods, as well as being sure the tree chosen can actually survive in your yard, can greatly improve the curb appeal of your landscape and the view out your picture window.

Crabapples are great small trees with four-season appeal. However, some can be very insect and disease prone. Below are recommendations from Ohio State University Extension. These cultivars would be especially resistant to problems:

* 'Adirondack'. One of the few outstanding crabapples with narrow upright tree form. Clean foliage, orange-red fruits, and showy white flowers. Excellent autumn foliage and fruit combination of reds and oranges. 15 foot.

* 'Excalibur'. Symmetrical globe-shaped tree form. Golden yellow fruits maturing to cider colors are ornamental in the fall months. Petite white flowers and fruits lining branches are outstanding features. 10 foot.

* 'Holiday Gold'. Rounded to open tree form. Golden yellow fruits with red blush attractive early fall to late winter. Consistent white blooms. 18 foot.

* 'Louisa'. Outstanding weeping form with graceful arching branches. Soft pink flowers. Fruits are a golden orange color. 12 foot. Other crabapples that are spreading-weepers but not as much true weepers include 'Anne E', 'Molten Lava', 'Mary Potter' and 'Candymint'.

* 'Prairifire'. Rounded to open tree form. Consistent stunning display of coral-pink flowers. Attractive glossy green foliage with a purple tinge. Purple fruits are ornamental from late June to early December and are paired with orange fall color of spur leaves. 18 foot.

* 'Red Jewel'. Upright oval tree habit with outstanding cherry red fruits that are highly ornamental little mini-apples all the way into early spring. Snow white flowers. 15 foot.

* M. sargentii. This species is a spreading dwarf type to 8-10 feet. Excellent petite white flowers and attractive scarlet fruits. Effective landscape use is to plant in groups of three.

* 'Sargentina'. Smaller yet variation on the Sargent crabapple, growing to 4-5 feet in height with dainty white flowers and attractive red fruits.

* 'Sugar Tyme'. Good rounded overall form, but the flower and fruits are the main attractions. Sugary white mass of blooms consistent from year to year followed by showy apple red fruits that are ornamental well into the winter months.

For more information:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1143.html

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_selection.aspx

3. Buy the cheapest plant.

It may seem like a bargain to buy close-out or discounted plants. However, if a plant is damaged before you obtain it, it may be slow to recover. In some cases it may never recover. Check tree root balls for loose burlap or exposed roots. Trunks should not be scratched or damaged. If the tree looks wilted or stressed, you may be buying a headache. Ask questions and be sure what you are buying is healthy and ready to take root.

For more information:

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/buying_highquality.aspx

4. Dig a small planting hole.

Small planting holes con restrict new roots which may never be able to grow out into native soils. It pays to give a plant a good start. Dig holes which are at least twice as wide as the root ball. However, do not dig the hole any deeper than the root ball. Digging deep holes means you will have loosened soil under the root ball. When this soil settles the tree will lean. However, digging a wide hole allows you to backfill with loosened soil which will allow easier root growth. This soil may be amended with material such as well-aged compost or pine nuggets. Such amendments should make up no more than 30% of the backfill with native soil making up at least 70% of the backfill. If "good*" or replacement soil is put into the hole as backfill at greater than 30% in heavy clay soil you will create an impermeable flower pot which will fill up with water and kill your tree.

For more information:

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1014.html

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.aspx

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3061.html

5. Plant it deep.

The top of the root ball should be slightly higher than the surrounding soil and certainly no deeper. Planting a tree too deep will likely doom it as roots will be smothered and the trunk may decay at the base over time.

For more information:

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.aspx

http://ohioline.osu.edu/sc189/sc189_14.html

6. Water it every day.

Over-watering is one of the biggest problems the Arbor Doctor sees. While daily watering is probably acceptable in sandy soils where water drains as quickly as it is introduced, clay soils do not drain well, even on a slope. When watering takes place on a regular and frequent basis, plants don’t have a chance to dry out and water replaces oxygen in tree root zones, leading to root and eventually tree death. A tree or shrub generally needs 1 inch of water every 10 days. If natural rainfall provides that, then don’t water. If natural rainfall falls short, water 1 inch every 10 days.

Provide this water in one watering, not several small waterings. Measure the inch in a coffee can or rain gauge. Also, measure natural rainfall. Don’t assume your house got what the airport got. Don’t water on a set schedule. Natural rainfall doesn’t follow a schedule and you should not either. Sprinkler systems which come on daily are costly to water bills and plant health.

For more information:

http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/mg/manual/woody4.htm

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3061.html

If you would like to know how you can save money on your water bill while having healthier, happier trees and shrubs, contact the Arbor Doctor for a water use audit at http://www.arbordoctor.com/contact.htm

7. Pile lots of mulch around the trunk.

A good quality mulch helps to maintain soil moisture and temperature, as well as enhancing beneficial biological activity. Unfortunately, the road to failure is paved with good intentions. Heaping mulch against a trunk like a volcano is potentially deadly. Volcano mulching buries the normally above-ground portions of the trunk leading to eventual decay and possible death. Tree roots will grow up through the unnaturally deep mulch. Eventually these new roots may encircle the tree and girdle the trunk, leading to decline and death.

Many mulches are applied "hot". They are poorly aged and the rapid decomposition emits damaging heat as well as robbing nitrogen from the soil. High wood-carbon content mulches are problematic. Fungi grows on some of these mulches called “shotgun” fungus which shoot black spores onto siding which are almost impossible to remove. The Arbor Doctor’s favorite mulches are pine bark and pine needles. The Arbor Doctor’s mulch philosophy: "The worse it smells, the worse it is!"

For more information:

http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/weeklypics/12-30-02.html

http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/d/d/ddd2/artillery_fungus.html

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/mulching.aspx

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1083.html

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1084.html

8. Add fill soil over the roots or trench through the roots.

Through the years the Arbor Doctor has gotten many calls to look at trees which have been hopelessly mutilated by construction. Sadly, these trees often take years to decline and die. Since the damage has already been done, any treatment options may amount to locking the barn door after the horse has escaped. Don’t let this happen to you. Roots radiate outward from the tree’s trunk, generally extending well beyond the branch spread. 90% of roots are generally in the top 12 inches of the soil. Trenching near a trunk, even 12 inches deep, may sever half the root system. Construction traffic crushes and destroys roots. Fill soil may smother roots and cut off supplies of moisture and oxygen. Preservation of trees during construction requires professional oversight. Preservation is best accomplished from the very beginning planning stages of construction. Remember, one new tree can cost several hundred dollars, will go through several years of transplant shock, and will take years to mature. The extra cost of professional oversight required to save your trees will pay dividends many times over. Contact the Arbor Doctor for a consultation at http://www.arbordoctor.com/contact.htm

For more information:

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/avoiding_construction.aspx

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/treatment_construction.aspx

http://www.pnwisa.org/htp/module1_3.html#2

http://www.arborday.org/trees/NineNum5.cfm

9. Top it.

The Arbor Doctor lists a lot of references on this topic. The Arbor Doctor is passionate on this topic. The fact is that there is no debate in professional circles on the issue of tree topping. Please note the consistency of thought among the various sources listed below. Any firm which routinely performs topping is violating professional arboricultural standards. Any firm which advertises this service is putting their lack of professionalism into print. How do you screen for a good arborist? One method: do they advertise topping?

For more information:

http://www.plantamnesty.org/stoptopping/5reasonstostoptopping.htm

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/topping.aspx

http://dnr.state.il.us/conservation/forestry/Urban/Treetopping.htm

http://www.chesco.com/~treeman/topping1.html

http://www.arborday.org/trees/NineNum1.cfm

http://www.urbantree.org/topping.asp

10. Make flush pruning cuts.

Pruning correctly means the difference between a tree which will experience proper wound closure and a tree which may experience years of problems. Flush cutting is not correct and pruning paints are ineffective. See the links below for instructions on making a proper pruning cut.

For more information:

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/pruning_young.aspx

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/pruning_mature.aspx

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/topping.aspx

The Arbor Doctor is your prescription for tree health